Oarsmen rowed the royal barges down the Chao Phraya River past the Grand Palace during the celebrations marking the Thai monarch's 60 years on the throne (picture taken from The Nation newspaper).

 

 

   On the night of Jun. 12, the waters of the Chao Phraya staged a flotilla of 52 ornately carved barges, rowed by 2,082 men resplendent in uniforms that hark back to a period lost in time. This rare event marked the climax of a lavish party thrown in honour of the country’s revered monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, as he celebrated 60 years on the throne. 

   Witnessing the show, in addition to the thousands of Thais and tourists expected to line the banks, were kings, queens and other royals from 25 countries. They included Emperor Akihito of Japan, King Abdullah of Jordan, King Sihamoni of Cambodia and Prince Albert of Monaco. 

   The royal barge procession had for backdrop historical landmarks such as the Grand Palace, former home of Thai kings, and ancient temples with cascading roofs. Further upstream two former Thai capitals reinforced this country’s amphibious traditions. 

   ‘’It is a natural choice for this unique occasion, because the Chao Phraya has been associated with many royal ceremonies and rites of passage in the past,’’ Steve Van Beek, author of ‘The Chao Phya: River in Transition', explained to IPS. 

   This river, which begins in the central plains of the country and flows south to the Gulf of Thailand, has been ‘’the principal shaper of Thai heritage, culture … and has moulded the nation’s values,’’ said the United States-born writer in the introduction to his book. ‘’Thais refer with pride to the Chao Phya’s ancient lineage as the ‘River of Kings’.’’ 

   In fact, the barge procession sets Thai monarchy apart from traditions associated with royalty in the rest of South-east Asia where land-based ceremonies dominated. ‘’The rivers served to protect the king and the barges were used to move Thai soldiers in times of war,’’ said Van Beek. ‘’Other kingdoms like the Khmer (in neighbouring Cambodia) were much more land-based and used elephants.’’ 

   And in times of peace, the country’s kings would board their ‘’own special royal barge’’ to pursue personal business, for religious events and for important royal ceremonies, notes a special supplement in Wednesday’s ‘Bangkok Post’ newspaper. ‘’On such major occasions, the king’s boat would be part of an elaborate flotilla known as a royal barge procession.’’ 

   Others saw the choice of the river to mark the finale of the royal ceremonies as a continuum of a Buddhist theme that runs through the life of a Thai monarch from the moment he ascends the throne. ‘’Water was used during the formal coronation ceremony of His Majesty the King,’’ Tongthong Chandransu, an academic specialising in Thai royal traditions at Bangkok’s Chulalongkorn University, told IPS. ‘’Water was poured on His Majesty’s palm from eight directions. And the King had to pour water as he delivered his first speech.’’ 

   The 78-year-old Bhumibol, currently the longest reigning monarch among the world’s royals, enjoys near divine status among his subjects. On the morning of June 9, an estimated one million Thais displayed such adulation as they gathered in an open plaza in the older part of Bangkok to witness the king participate in the first of many events to mark this milestone. Some Thais wept as Bhumibol spoke from the balcony of a baroque-styled building. 

   His position in a country that has been a constitutional monarchy since 1932 goes beyond mere religious fervour. He has carved his name on development programmes to uplift the country’s rural poor, succeeded as an inventor and been known for his flair as a jazz musician. 

   On the country’s political stage, he has been viewed as a symbol of stability, through 17 military coups, 15 constitutions and 21 prime ministers since he was proclaimed king on Jun. 9, 1946. 

   Bhumibol’s involvement on three occasions -- most recently in April this year -- to help douse political tensions that threatened to shake the country apart have received popular support. They have been subtle gestures rather than blatant intervention. His speech to his subjects, on Friday, conveyed the status he has sought as a symbol of unity. ‘’Everybody must be fair in their opinions, act with honesty, comply with the rules and help each other,’’ the king said. 

   ‘’We are proud of our king and the ceremonies planned on the river to symbolise our culture,’’ Panot Asawachai, a Thai tour guide, said on the eve of the five-day celebrations planned in Bangkok. ‘’The royal barge procession is special to our country. It is the only kind in the world.’’ (END/2006)